A discussion featuring George Carlos explores the changing role of Mexican cuisine in Los Angeles, examining its influence as a cultural expression, an artistic endeavor, and a craft that continues to evolve.
Critic Jonathan Gold, food scholar Evan Kleiman, and renowned chefs Ray Garcia, Bricia Lopez, and Carlos Salgado have spent their careers celebrating, exploring, and shaping the culinary landscape of Mexican cuisine in Los Angeles. Before a recent panel discussion at the Getty, they shared their thoughts on the evolution of Mexican food in LA and how it continues to influence culture, artistry, and taste.
Is Food an Art or a Craft?
Evan Kleiman: While art has an intellectual layer for me, I see food preparation more as a craft. It’s about skill and care, not so much about creating art.
Ray Garcia: I approach food like a craftsman. It’s a hands-on process, combining trial and error with a little bit of social science. I’m always tweaking, improving, and responding to how people react to the dishes.
Jonathan Gold: I’m a writer, and while some may call writing an art form, I see food a bit differently. Take Carlos Salgado—his food is rooted in Mexican flavors but carries a level of abstraction. It's not art, but it’s food approached in a unique way.
Carlos Salgado: For me, cooking becomes art when I’m with family and friends, sitting under the sky, cooking over a fire for hours. That experience feels more artistic than cooking in high-end restaurants, where food becomes almost like museum pieces, only accessible to those with a certain background.
Latin American Cuisine: Beyond Mexican Food
Jonathan Gold: I love Salvadoran food. It's simple, but the way they work with corn, greens, and cheese is remarkable. Their fermentations add a lovely depth to the dishes.
Evan Kleiman: Guatemalan tamales stand out to me, even more than Mexican tamales. The masa is tender and often mixed with potato. Wrapped in banana leaves, the flavor is different, and they have unexpected fillings like olives and raisins.
Bricia Lopez: Peruvian food has so much depth and complexity. From ceviche to rice and beans, every dish is a revelation of flavors.
Carlos Salgado: Baja coastal cuisine is where my heart lies. Eating seafood fresh from the ocean, simply prepared with big flavors—oysters, clams, shrimp—it’s an unparalleled experience.
Mexican-American Cuisine for Beginners
Evan Kleiman: Tacos are the gateway. Eating with your hands takes away the formality, letting you enjoy the food with a childlike sense of joy.
Bricia Lopez: Mole is perfect for beginners. It’s often misunderstood as just a chocolate sauce, but it’s so much more—layered with flavors from 18 different ingredients. I recommend trying mole, barbacoa, and chiles rellenos.
Carlos Salgado: Explore different types of chilies and salsas. The balance and variety of flavors are thrilling, and they showcase the true essence of Mexican cuisine.
Ray Garcia: Challenge your assumptions about Mexican food, especially the idea that it should be cheap. In LA, there’s a fascination with dollar tacos, but it’s worth considering what goes into making them so inexpensive. Being mindful of the origins and ethics behind your food choices can elevate your experience.